The first application of sealer on a new driveway should occur around one year after installation. This will allow some of the new oils to evaporate and promote good sealer adhesion. The very first application of sealer may only last one to two years as the new asphalt will soak in the first coat of sealer. This is a good thing! After that we recommend sealing every two to four years depending on many factors.
The short answer is No. Sealcoat is not a “leveling agent”. The sealer will help fill in small voids and coat any imperfections, but the imperfections may still be visible. Spider cracks are very common and, short of infrared heating of the entire surface, there is nothing that can or should be done to eliminate the shallow surface flaws in your asphalt. Quite often, due to the deep, rich, black finish of a new sealcoat, the spider cracks will initially appear more noticeable until the sealer dulls down after a few weeks.
Numerous studies by the Asphalt Institute demonstrate the measurable benefits of preventive maintenance. Periodic Crack Sealing and Sealcoating will greatly extend the life of your pavement. With the skyrocketing costs of new asphalt, the case for maintenance has never been greater. Spend a little now – or a LOT later.
No. While many manufacturers produce “sealcoat”, the process, standards and compounds used in the making of sealcoat vary greatly. We only choose industrial suppliers that produce and provide a warranty on the product and its composition. You can buy “sealcoat” locally, but it won’t last as long. But that’s only part of the story. Do you really want to haul all those heavy pails home, spill it on your clothes (or worse, the house) and then try and make it look nice with a $10 squeegee? Or would you rather have a professional assess your driveway, make the necessary and proper crack repairs and seal it with State-of-the-Art equipment and standardized procedures?
Not all sealcoat is created equally and certainly not all sealcoat companies are created equally. We are serious about our products, our service and our reputation in the community. If price is the only determining factor, GTAseal may not be for you. We spend more time preparing the asphalt surface and cracks for sealing than the competition. And we’re fussy. GTAseal employees each have specific orders to not cut corners and to do the job to our exact standards. With GTAseal you really can get what you pay for. We knowingly entered a market flooded with competition and we knew the only way to stand out was to offer a premium product that outlasted and outperformed the competitors.
No. The pavement must lose some of its light oils and cure before you can properly sealcoat. Six months to one year is generally enough time to cure the asphalt to accept sealcoat. But don’t wait too long, either. Newly installed, unsealed asphalt can absorb oil, gas and other chemicals or be damaged by winter weather before it’s treated. Here’s an easy test to determine of your driveway is ready to be sealed – take a cup of water and spill it onto the pavement. If it beads up and shows a little oily reflection, the pavement still needs to cure some more before sealcoat application.
With a new driveway sealed within six months to a year from installation, you should expect one to two years of protection from your first application. Subsequent sealcoat applications should last two to four years. If the driveway is 7 years old and was never sealed, you might only get one year from the first application, but two to three years from subsequent sealcoat applications. Additionally, variables such as water runoff, salt, sand, snowplowing and severe temperature swings will play a role in the longevity of your sealcoat. Anyone that promises five, six or seven years or more of coverage is simply making empty promises that you’ll have no way of enforcing. Also, while the sealer itself may last two to three years, cracks may surface which would trigger the need for treatment before the color has faded.
Yes. With the high cost of gas and labor, we can conserve time and money by avoiding travel time and pass along savings to you and your neighbours. Phone Al for more information 647.472.1052
All driveways are different, will either have sealer hand-applied with a special squeegee broom or will be sprayed with a blocking board and/or plastic setup for protection near the home and hardscapes (patios, sidewalks, rock walls, etc. We take great care to avoid overspray on home and hardscapes; however, we do allow for a slight “mustache” on the grass for uniform coverage to the edges of the asphalt. The product will not harm the grass and will be gone after one or two mowing's. Additionally, while we feather in the sealer, there will be a slight difference in appearance at the transition point between hand application and spray areas. This will fade over time. Ask your representative for more details.
Hot Rubber Crack Sealing is the single most important step you can take to protect your pavement once cracks have appeared. Cracks are a natural occurrence for most asphalt surfaces after a few years. Proper preparation is key to successful crack sealing. Cracks must be dry and clean for the hot rubber to adhere properly to the sidewalls of the cracks and form a tight bond to prevent water penetration. Once the crack is cleaned, we will apply a band of specially-formulated polymeric rubber at 350-400 degrees across the crack. This band of rubber is approximately three inches wide. While still hot, we then cascade sand across the rubber – this prevents tacky pull up on hot days and improves sealer adhesion. The use of sand on driveways, parking lots and roads may be optional – ask your representative for more site specific details.
We have several methods and techniques to address oil, gas or chemical stains on your asphalt. Heavy stains often change the molecular structure of the asphalt making it impossible to guarantee results. Typically, we will apply special oil spot primer or apply a presoak of sealer before sealing the entirety of the asphalt. This is designed to mask and adhere to the stain and allow the sealer to then adhere to the primer.
We ask that you not schedule any lawn services (fertilizing or mowing) for 48 hours prior to service and no fertilizing until 48 hours after (okay to mow 24 hours after). Please move all vehicles at least 20′ from any asphalt surfaces to allow access for service trucks and power cleaning. Turn off sprinklers in time for asphalt to dry before our arrival. Keep sprinklers off for 24-48 hours after service (often, sprinklers systems will leave streak marks on fresh sealer during the first few weeks – this will fade away but can leave an initial undesirable appearance). Keep vehicles off surface for 24 to 36 hours minimum. Foot traffic is usually OK after only a 8 hours. Remind all drivers to avoid turning car wheels unless car is in motion as this can lead to scuff marks (24-48 hours).
This is the reason #1 why using squeegee IS NOT always the best option. Complete cure time for sealer takes up to 30 days. During this time, the surface is sensitive to staining, tire marks and streaking from irrigation systems/hose use. While somewhat unsightly, these imperfections should fade away over the next few weeks.
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